Saturday, May 21, 2011

Syrian Food

One of the highlights of Syrian food is mezza, the tapas of the Middle East. Mezza is a generous spread of small dishes, mostly eaten without cutlery, using flat bread, lettuce or vine leaves to scoop up dips or to wrap portions of colourful salads. Many new to the concept of mezza mistake the generous amounts and endless array of dishes as the meal itself rather than a prelude to even more food! Amidst the social bustle and conversations of family and friends, it’s food to be tasted over an hour or two and reflects the culture of hospitality and generosity, where everything to do with food is presented on a large scale.

Smokey baba ghanouj and creamy hummus, both well known in the West, are key elements of a traditional mezza. Another favourite in Syria is muhammara, a spicy capsicum and walnut dip made with pomegranate molasses. Popular salads include tabouleh, the well-known parsley and burghul salad often served with baby cos lettuce leaves to eat it with; fattoush that includes toasted or fried pieces of bread with a crunchy mix of fresh cucumber, radish, tomato and herbs; and fateh, a salad with chickpeas, yogurt, tahini and garlic. Other finger foods are golden baked pastries filled with minced meat and spices called sambusic or spinach and baked lamb pies called sfeeha.

Kibbeh is the national dish and comes in many varieties (raw, baked or fried) with the core element being the very fresh, finely ground lamb or beef that is seasoned and spiced and mixed with burghul (a type of cracked wheat). Other popular dishes are based on Mediterranean vegetables such as zucchini and eggplant hollowed out and stuffed with meat and rice. ‘Ma a’ loube’ is an eggplant stack that is layered with rice and lamb.

The Syrian palate prizes the salty, tangy and sour flavours. Apart from the generous use of salt in cooking, cheeses like labneh, shankleesh and jibne baida satisfy some of the salty cravings. Lemon juice is common in all Mediterranean cooking but other key ingredients include sumac, a deep red spice that adds a lemony taste to salads and meats, and the slightly tangy fresh herb baqli, or purslane as it’s called in English.

One of the distinctive ingredients found in Syria is freekeh, young wheat that has been harvested and roasted to add a smoky flavour. It has a chewy texture like brown rice and is delicious served with meat or poultry. Syria also boasts truffles which are found in the desert and have a wonderful earthy flavour and aroma, though nowhere near as strong as those found in France.
Many Syrian expatriates miss the variety of food available on the streets of Damascus especially the sweets, filled with nuts, clotted cream called ashta, sugar syrup and hints of rosewater and orange blossom water. Damascus Rose which features baked filo pastry and filled with ashta, then drizzled with syrup and crushed nuts, is just one of the sweet delights.

Fattoush 

Baklava

 

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